Visiting birthplace of “Aphrodite” – Cyprus

REPUBLIC of CYPRUS: Cyprus, the birthplace of Greek goddess Aphrodite, is the third largest island in the Mediterranean. It’s an island of sun, sea, sand-white ancient temples, scenic sites, and cool mountain resorts. Cyprus can offer its visitors picturesque pine-clad mountains, golden sun-kissed beaches, modern cosmopolitan towns, tranquil and timeless villages, and genuinely welcoming Cypriots. I love visiting islands and this was just one of those perfect island spots that kind of reminded me of my trip to Santorini.

Houses on the mountains in Cyprus
Houses on the mountains in Cyprus
            

The strategic position of Cyprus attracted the first Greeks, who came to the island over 3,000 years ago at the end of the Trojan War. After that, over the centuries Cyprus came under the sway of various rulers including the Egyptians, Assyrians, Persians, Romans, Crusaders, Venetians, Ottomans, and finally the British. In July of 1974, Turkey invaded Cyprus. Since then Cyprus is the only divided country in Europe. You can go to the Turkish occupied side or as the Cypriots say “Northern Side” with proper documents and enjoy a little piece of Turkey there.

We rented a car from Paphos airport to get around the island and this is probably the best way to hop from town to town here. Cyprus can be a small island but don’t underestimate its seductive beauty and luring history. Cyprus is a beautiful country and has the capability to attract any sort of tourists from photographers, nature wanderers, winter-sports lovers, swimmers, food and culture hunters, those who are into Greek myths, to those who just want to be lazy and lay flat on the sandy beach by blue water and surrounded by hundreds of green palm trees. You can spend weeks in this island and will still find things you haven’t experienced before. Too bad we stayed only for few days but I can imagine myself going to some of the unseen places in Cyprus and the joy they would have brought me.

TIME of TRAVEL: It was in the beginning of December, 2013 when we flew to Paphos, Cyprus. Going from Belgium, I felt blessed to be in warm weather. Although it can be a bit cold after dark or really windy and chilly up in the mountains, Cyprus was still a perfect place to visit when most of the parts of Europe put on their greyish wintry looks. Beaches around this time of the year are less crowded but Mediterranean water is perfect for swimming. Sometimes it does snow in the mountains in December or January but don’t have to worry about that in the big cities.

OUR HOTEL: Unlike my hotel in Edinburgh (which didn’t have any toilette inside the room and where I could hear a baby crying for the whole night in the next room), this hotel in Cyprus was actually some 4-star hotel with fancy lobby, spacious room, furnished balcony, and ocean-view. Oh yeh, cause I wasn’t traveling alone this time, so more reason to pick a hotel with best reviews. The hotel was Mediterranean Beach Hotel in Limassol. It was like a grand resort by the blue water. Breakfast (lot of options…was really nice) and Wi-Fi were free. The hotel had a private entrance to the beach but the beach was accessible by anyone.

Blue Mediterranean in front of our hotel in Limassol, Cyprus
Blue Mediterranean in front of our hotel in Limassol, Cyprus
             

Staying in Limassol also made it easy and saved us time in commuting to different parts of this island, since it’s almost in the middle of the island and all the other towns were about an hour drive from Limassol.

EATING and SHOPPING: Cyprus has a wide range of restaurants and fast-food places from local cuisines to any other international kitchens. I thought we would find more of Greek food here. I found some but not many and some similar Greek dishes have different names. I saw many Pizza Hut, McDonald’s, KFC, and Subway here and there. Our first lunch was in Limassol old town in a restaurant called “Caballeros” right in front of Limassol Castle. A row of restaurants can be found here, usually offering traditional food with some other international cuisines. Try Cyprus’ local cheese Halloumi which is very tasty. I had a very well-known Cypriot soup called “Afgo-Lemoni” which is made with chicken, lemon, egg, and rice…had a fantastic lemon scent to it. On our third day in Cyprus, some of our family friends treated us in a fish tavern called “Kastro Tavern” in Paphos Harbor. If you have a weakness for sea-food, Paphos is probably one of the best places to enjoy freshly caught seafood with beautiful view of the harbor.

Grilled sea-bass, our last portion of lunch by Paphos Harbor
Grilled sea-bass, our last portion of lunch by Paphos Harbor
           

For shopping, village of Lefkara is very famous for the lace-like embroidery which is a very traditional and famous souvenir of Cyprus. One of the famous designs they do on fabric is inspired by Leonardo da Vinci art. Lefkara is also known for silver artifacts and local delights. Limassol old town also has a small market place near the castle where you can find some local trinkets and generic souvenirs.

Some typical Cypriot treats and delights in Troodos Mountains
Some typical Cypriot treats and delights in Troodos Mountains
            

PLACES WE’E VISITED: We spent total of two days in Southern Cyprus and one full day in the Northern part which is occupied by the Turkish now. Some of the towns here are small and can be combined with other nearby places. Renting a car definitely was the way to go here. Visiting these big and small cities were fun but half the entertainment was to drive by scenic highways and get to these small places.

1) LIMASSOL (LEMESOS): Since we stayed in Limassol, we decided to roam around Limassol on the first day. This is the 2nd largest city of Cyprus. The city is thriving with busy shopping centers, countless taverns, restaurants, and grooving nightlife.

Our first stop was Limassol Castle. Located in the historic city center of Limassol, the purpose of this castle was to guard and protect both the port and the city itself. The present edifice dates back to the Ottoman period, 1590. But archeological evidence indicates that it existed during the Byzantine period too.

Inside Limassol Castle in Cyprus
Inside Limassol Castle in Cyprus
               

Some early excavations, like marble pedestal, floor of Middle Byzantine (10th – 11th century), bases of colonnades, basilica and chapels, and tombstones are some highlights of this castle.  Limassol Castle houses the Medieval Museum of Cyprus today. In this ancient monument, artifacts are displayed which reflect the political, economic, social, and artistic development of Cyprus as well as everyday life on the island from the 3rd to the 19th century A.D. Do climb all the way to the terrace for a beautiful view of the town, mountains afar, and glimmering blue water.

From the terrace of Limassol Castle in Cyprus
From the terrace of Limassol Castle in Cyprus
              

The castle is pretty small with 3 levels and took us about 45 minutes to visit. Entrance fee is 4.50 euros per adult. Castle is open Tuesday – Saturday from 9-5 and Sundays from 10 – 1 (closed on Mondays).

We didn’t manage to go to Kourion Theatre outside of Limassol, but this ancient site is worth visiting if you can spare some time. This amphitheater was extensively excavated which is still used for summer concerts and theatrical productions. Also the delightful villages in gentle pace of rural life are worth visiting, like ancient village of Amathus. On our last day we stopped at Governor’s Beach outside of Limassol. We went to the wrong point of Governor’s Beach where it was empty and dirty, but the main beach supposed to be a long sandy beach with many fish taverns, and beautiful white stone coast.

2) LEFKARA: Visiting the village of Lefkara (in Larnaca district) at the foothill of Troodos Mountain was a surprising treat for us. It’s only half an hour away from Larnaca. After finishing with Limassol and lunch, we took this pleasant drive thru the mountains to Lefkara.

We first arrived in Kato Lefkara, which is the lower town. It’s a picturesque, unspoiled little town with lots of traditional houses and boasting culture. Kato Lefkara had silver mine before and has a long tradition in the art of silversmithing. We took about 15-20 minutes to walk around the villages, looking at lace shops and around the mountainous areas and then drove to Pano Lefkara (Upper town). We really didn’t get down on the upper part, just drove thru some small neighborhoods enjoying unique architecture. Both Pano and Kato Lefkara are famous for their lace-making tradition. Enjoy the old churches from 11th century, some museums, pleasant countryside, and artistic small alleys in these villages. Loved strolling thru the stone paved streets and photographic nature walk.

Looking over Lefkara
Looking over Lefkara
           

3) LARNACA: It’s about 66km from Limassol to Larnaca and was our last stop of 1st day.  It claims to be the oldest city in Cyprus with evident inhabitant dating back to 6000 years.

Salt Lake of Larnaca is opposite of the airport and is the home of thousands of migrating flamingoes during winter. It was almost getting dark when we reached there and saw barely any water on the lake…maybe it dries up during winter. You can see the muddy lake lined with lots of green and tall palm trees in one side and a beautiful mosque while driving parallel to the lake.

Hala Sultan Tekke Mosque and Salt Lake in the front in Larnaca, Cyprus
Hala Sultan Tekke Mosque and Salt Lake in the front in Larnaca, Cyprus
              

Beautiful and historic Hala Sultan Tekkke Mosque stands by the salt lake in Larnaca. The building of the mosque in its present form is dated from the 18th century. It is built over a tomb which according to the tradition belongs to Umm Haram, foster-mother of the Prophet Muhammad (pbuh). It’s the main Muslim pilgrimage site of Cyprus and among the most important holy places of Islam. Open Monday – Sunday from 8:30am – 5pm and closed on Fridays.

After the mosque and salt lake, we drove to Larnaca Promenade. It was already dark and could only hear Mediterranean’s roaring sound. It was pleasant taking a stroll by the water. There are many restaurants and bars here by the promenade Larnaca castle is located in the old town at one end of this promenade.

4) NICOSIA: Also known as Lefkosia, Nicosia is about 82 km from Limassol. It has been the capital of this island since the 11th century. Today, it blends its historic past brilliantly with the bustle of a modern city.

The heart of the city, enclosed by 16th century Venetian walls, is dotted with museums, ancient churches, and medieval buildings preserving the nostalgic atmosphere of years past. Lefkosia/Nicosia is the only capital city in Europe that remains divided by force. Although we didn’t go out of the main city, just few kms away are enchanting Byzantine churches and monasteries, charming villages and archeological sites.

We spent most of our time in the old town of Nicosia before crossing the border to the north side which is under Turkish authority at this moment. Ledra Street in old town led us to the border and check-point. The street is packed with many shops, and restaurants.

5) TROODOS MOUNTAINS: We met up with some family friends on our 3rd day in Cyprus and it was very nice of them to spend a whole day with us and showing around the island. We started our day with driving towards Troodos Mountains. Our first stop was at the main square of Troodos where we stopped for some shopping and stretching. Then started driving again towards Omodos Village.

Roads in Troodos Mountains in Cyprus
Roads in Troodos Mountains in Cyprus
                

Omodos Village on the Troodos Mountain (geographically it’s in Limassol District) is a place where tourists can experience Cyprus’s genuine culture and architecture. This is the most authentic and traditional village in the island. Monastery of the Holy Cross is located here. The monastery is not active; it’s rather a museum now where you can get some glimpses of this country’s history.

Monastery of the Holy Cross  in Omodos Village, Cyprus
Monastery of the Holy Cross in Omodos Village, Cyprus
                 

There are many falls and scenic panoramic points here where you can enjoy the valley below from up above. It was simply awesome to drive thru those mountains to get a different perspective of this island.

Driving by scenic Troodos Mountains in Cyprus
Driving by scenic Troodos Mountains in Cyprus
               

6) PAPHOS: About 70km drive from Limassol, Paphos is probably the most bustling city of Cyprus. The city is known for being the birthplace of Greek goddess Aphrodite.

On our 3rd day, after spending some time in the mountains and villages and having a wonderful lunch by the water-front in Paphos, we went to the castle. Paphos Castle is located at the western part of the port, which once was a part of coastal defensive system of Cyprus. This ancient Venetian castle was restored by the Ottomans in 1592. What survives today is the Ottoman restoration of the western Frankish tower, its Venetian additions and the remains of the second tower at a distance of 50m to the east. Some parts of it were used as prisons cells during the Ottoman occupation. During the British rule, it was used as a salt warehouse.

Looking over Paphos Harbor from the castle, in Cyprus
Looking over Paphos Harbor from the castle, in Cyprus
                       

A couple of minute of walk from the castle is Kato Paphos Archeological Site “Mosaics”. It was almost sunset and we could spend little time visiting only the highlights of this beautiful outdoor museum. It’s a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Excavations have unearthed the spectacular 3rd and 5th century mosaics of the Houses of Dionysus and other places which were buried for sixteen centuries but were remarkably intact. Some of the important monuments in this site are the House of Dionysus (Greek God of Wine), some early Christian basilicas and churches, Agora, Tombs of the Kings, and Hellenistic Theatre.

A lighthouse by the sea in Paphos Archeological site
A lighthouse by the sea in Paphos Archeological site
             

House of Dionysus (2nd – 4th century A.D.) was the first house with mosaic floors to be discovered in Paphos. The house consists of atrium with garden pool and about forty rooms. All these rooms and halls around the atrium are paved with mosaic floors. The oldest mosaic floor (dated to the early Hellenistic period) in Cyprus is the pebble mosaic near atrium representing monster Scylla. All the mosaics here are from late 2nd century or early 3rd century. It’s open Monday to Sunday from 8:30am – 5pm.

Mosaic from 2nd-4th century in House of Dionysus  in Paphos, Cyprus
Mosaic from 2nd-4th century in House of Dionysus in Paphos, Cyprus
              

After the sunset, we came down to Paphos harbor for little stroll and some ice-cream time from “Coldstone”. It was absolutely fantastic walking by the promenade at night.

Paphos Harbor at night
Paphos Harbor at night
            

One of the most beautiful sites of Paphos or in whole Cyprus is Petra Tou Romiou or Aphrodite’s Rock which we visited on our last day in Cyprus. According to Greek legends, this is where Aphrodite, the Greek goddess of love and beauty, is said to have risen from the waves that crash on its shores. It’s a massive chunk of stone that marks the spot. Her birthplace is a place of pilgrimage for the entire Hellenic world and is a beautiful pebble beach.

Looking over Petra Tou Romiou from a panoramic point, in Cyprus
Looking over Petra Tou Romiou from a panoramic point, in Cyprus
 

A day in Lille, France

LILLE, FRANCE: Lille is a buzzing city which is waiting to be discovered by tourists yet. It makes a nice day trip if you are visiting Brussels or Brugges in Belgium. Lille is one of the largest cities in France with lots of Flemish influences, may be for being a bordering city with Belgium. Old town of this city is where local crowds gather to hang out and enjoy the atmosphere.

Closest parking we found here was right at Place de General-de-Gaulle. You just walk up and voila, you are right in the middle of the main square.

TIME of TRAVEL: My older sister and her family were visiting Europe in May 2013. It was their first time in this continent. We picked Lille because it’s only little more than an hour drive from our little town in Belgium and could easily make a day-trip and come back home before the kids were tired. They were going to go to Paris anyways the following week, just wanted to show them a smaller French town nearby. The weather was great and many festivals were going on every street of Lille that day.

EATING and SHOPPING: Restaurant or cafes are everywhere in the city center, especially in Place du Theatre. This is where we had lunch in front of the Bourse or the Chamber of Commerce building. You can see many quick and fast food type places while walking towards Vieux Lille. Do try some French bakeries and pastries. For shopping, Rue de la Monnaie had many options from small local stores to big brand names.

PLACES WE’VE VISITED: The main city center is very compact and can be covered on foot. We spent only few hours here and just walked around the old part and visited some old churches and main landmarks.

1) PLACE de GENERAL-de-GAULLE: The square is also known as Grand Place. This is the main square of the town with a big fountain in the middle with a statue known as Column of the Goddess from 1843. Many beautiful historic buildings are lined up on all sides of the square. One of the important buildings is a Flemish-style which is the headquarters of local newspaper La Voix du Nord.

Place du General-de-Gaulle, the main square of Lille, France
Place du General-de-Gaulle, the main square of Lille, France
             

2) PLACE du THEATRE: This is a lively place with to stop and take a breath. Located beside Place de General-de-Gaulle, the square houses two beautiful and historic buildings: The Opera and the Chamber of Commerce. Both of the buildings are from 1920s. These buildings are supposed to look very nice at night when all the lights are on, but too bad we didn’t stay that long!

Opera house in Place du Theatre in Lille, France
Opera house in Place du Theatre in Lille, France
              

3) VIEUX LILLE: This is the old quarter of the city and nice place to take a stroll. Loved walking on the cobble-stone street of Rue de la Monnaie while enjoying the view of old houses and designer stores. Some museums are also located on Rue de la Monnaie.

Vieux Lille - an old district of Lille
Vieux Lille – an old district of Lille
         

4) CATHEDRALE NOTRE DAME de la TREILLE: This is an old cathedral and went through many renovations and changes over the years. Outside it has that old and wise look but inside it is rather a very modern cathedral. Very grand but contemporary altar and some big colorful windows are worth looking. There was an art exhibition going on behind its main altar and a live band of youngsters was singing outside in front of the cathedral during our visit. It’s free to enter and is situated in Viuex Lille.

Main altar of Cathedral Notre Dame de la Treille in Lille
Main altar of Cathedral Notre Dame de la Treille in Lille
             

Companille or the Bell Tower of this cathedral is very old compared to the cathedral itself. There was a big fair or festival going on when we were there. Live music, food stalls, kids play area, and many other things were going on around the cathedral that day.

5) EGLISE SAINT MAURICE: Not sure when it was built, but it looked like a very old Gothic church not too far from city center. It was a big church with some beautiful stained-glass windows and really large old religious paintings.

6) HOTEL d’VILLE: We walked about 15 minutes from Place du Theatre to go see Hotel d’Ville or the city hall of Lille. It’s a big orange building with a clock tower at one side and is something worth a look. Walk few step across the street and Porte de Paris is there with a nice small garden surrounding this old gate from 1692.

Porte de Paris from 1692 near Hotel d'Ville in Lille, France
Porte de Paris from 1692 near Hotel d’Ville in Lille, France
            

City built on a swamp – St. Petersburg, Russia

ST. PETERSBURG, RUSSIA: One of the top ten high-class destinations in the world and a UNESCO World Heritage Site, St. Petersburg, was a magical city for us to visit. It’s situated at one tip of Baltic Sea and by Neva River and has a long list of major attractions. I haven’t seen another European city like St. Petersburg before. I imagined the city having more old-style building/apartments from communist era, stubborn people, and blunt food. But my perception changed as soon as we drove to the heart of city and saw its historical sites, modern restaurants, and friendly people in the stores. Of course you will still see those communist style buildings in some of the town where people are still living with high rent.

Glimpse of St. Petersburg by Neva River
Glimpse of St. Petersburg by Neva River
              

St. Petersburg, former capital of Russia, was founded by Peter the Great in 1703. He indeed built this great city on a swamp while his people laughed at his idea. Peter the Great was a long-visioned man and stuck to his idea and now St. Petersburg is one of the major destinations in Europe. But the city wasn’t named after him. St. Peter is the patron of the city after whom the city was named. It is the former home of the Russian Emperors who were known as Tsars/Czars and a center spot of imperial Russian culture. The city was known as Leningrad in 1924 honoring founder of Soviet Union, Lenin.

If you love palaces, this city has plenty of them and stunning ones too. A chain of these palaces and many other royal-type buildings are standing by Neva River one after another.

We had to visit the city through a tour company because you need an invitation from the country to get visa with American Passports. We booked this tour with SPB Tours. On the 1st day we were picked up from our cruise-port around 8am and ended at 6pm and the next day it was from 9am to 5pm. Our guide was a very enthusiastic lady and was very honest about her country, giving us some pros and cons on overall living conditions in past and present day Russia. She was very nice to even buy some typical Russian toys for my girls. Other than getting the visa, I think it’s better to have a guide when you are visiting any cities in Russia since almost everything is written in Russian.

TIME of TRAVEL: Our whole family took a cruise on the Baltic Sea in August of 2013 from Dover, England. It was a 12 day cruise that stopped at many cities but St. Petersburg was the highlight of this cruise for everyone. Our ship docked in St. Petersburg on an early morning. We had 2 full days to explore before we started sailing again on the next evening. It was cold in the mornings and a bit chilly both afternoons. Second day we had to deal with some clouds and rain for most part.

EATING and SHOPPING: It seemed to me Russia has countless traditional and local souvenirs to bring back home and some of them can be very expensive too. Russian Dolls (matryoshka) and hand-crafted lacquered boxes are very typical Russian gift items. I saw some good quality winter accessories and wooden decors or kitchen wares in almost all gift shops too. Painting on these wooden accessories is known as “Khokhloma” painting. It’s the name of a Russian handicraft style wood painting and national ornament, known for its vivid flower patterns, red and gold colors over a black background. The effect it has when applied to cheap and light wooden tableware is extraordinary, making it look heavier and giving it metal-like glamorous look.

"Khokhloma" - Russian wood painting hand-crafts, something beautiful to bring back home from St. Petersburg, Russia
“Khokhloma” – Russian wood painting hand-crafts, something beautiful to bring back home from St. Petersburg, Russia
             

For food, first day we had lunch in a restaurant by the highway where our guide took us to. We had the chance of tasting some traditional Russian dishes here, like beat and cabbage soup for appetizer and beef stroganoff for the main course. After the lunch our guide told the history of stroganoff and where it came from. The story goes that Count Stroganoff in St. Petersburg loved eating beef. But when he became old and lost his teeth, the count told his chef to cut the meat in small sizes, so he could chew them easily and it became so famous that it spread out to the whole world. So, anyways, the second day we had Russian fast food which was a mushroom and ground beef pastry.

Our first lunch in St. Petersburg - beef stroganoff
Our first lunch in St. Petersburg – beef stroganoff
        

PLACES WE’VE VISITED: We had 2 full days to spend in St. Petersburg. It’s a huge city and everything is very spread out. I don’t think we could have seen all these spots if we didn’t have a coach and an expert guide. You can spend weeks here and still will be left with many unseen spots…St. Petersburg has countless things to see and do.

1) ST. NICHOLAS CHURCH: We started our 1st day in St. Petersburg with this church. Also known as Blue Church, St. Nicholas looked more like a monastery to me, something very similar to what we have seen in Kiev, Ukraine. This 18th century church has nice gold and green theme and a decorative interior. Like most of the Russian churches, it also doesn’t have any sitting arrangements; worshippers only stand or sometimes kneel down if they get tired from long services. Also check out the bell tower of the church few steps away. Since this is still an active church, no photos are allowed inside but it’s free to enter.

2) PETERHOF PALACE and GARDEN: Next we took a 30-minutes hydrofoil ride (it’s like a big boat that can go very fast on water) on Neva River from the city to its outskirt where Peterhof Palace and Garden is located. Situated by Gulf of Finland, Peterhof is best known for its vast and beautiful gardens and big parks with many statues. Garden of Catherine I and Palace of Catherine II are all here in this lovely place. Total of 135 (if I can remember correctly) big and small fountains are all over the garden and in front of the palace.

One of many fountains of Peterhof in St. Petersburg
One of many fountains of Peterhof in St. Petersburg
          

We entered Peterhof through Lower Park and walked up to the Upper Garden near the palace. After all those walking, we came to know that visitors are only allowed in 1/3 of this park. Countless small fountains, many busts, flowers beds, and a huge fountain decorate the Royal Garden in front of the palace. It is a stunning sight when you are standing on the balcony and looking over the garden. By the way, all the golden statues are actually gilded with real gold.

Peterhof Garden and Palace in St. Petersburg
Peterhof Garden and Palace in St. Petersburg
            

After climbing some steps we reached terrace of the palace. Only 6 rooms are accessible in Peterhof Palace. Although most of the fountains survived WWII, the palace was burnt to ground in the war and was later rebuilt.

Looking over Peterhof Garden from the terrace - St. Petersburg, Russia
Looking over Peterhof Garden from the terrace – St. Petersburg, Russia
            

3) TSARS’ VILLAGE or PUSHKIN PALACE or CATHERINE’S PALACE: From Peterhof we stopped for lunch and then headed towards Tsar’s Village. We drove about 25 km, about an hour, from Peterhof to get here. This is considered as one of the prettiest palaces in Russia. When we entered the courtyard, we saw the large series of buildings which was once summer residence of the Tsars.

Tsars' Village in St. Petersburg
Tsars’ Village in St. Petersburg
    

The most notable palace here Catherine’s Palace was a wedding gift from Peter the Great to his wife Tsarina Catherine I. The original palace was built in 1713 and then several wings were added later on. Peter and Catherine’s daughter Elizabeth’s favorite color was blue and pink, that’s how this palace got its blue and white color (originally was actually blue and pink). Previously it was gilded with real gold but Germans pealed all gold from the palace during WWII, now it’s just painted with paints. When Russians knew Germans were coming during WWII, they took pictures inside and outside of this palace 2 weeks before their arrival. That’s how they could restore the whole thing according to those copies.

A dazzling room inside Catherine's Palace in St. Petersburg
A dazzling room inside Catherine’s Palace in St. Petersburg
              

Inside of Catherine’s Palace is stunningly beautiful, reminded me of Versailles Palace in France. The whole palace has elegant golden theme. We saw many big rooms and marvelous halls. Bombs from WWII destroyed it heavily but was rebuilt like the original. Even they tried to decorate the interiors with similar items. Most expensive Chinese porcelain and large paintings are in its collection too.

One of the big hall of Catherine's Palace in St. Petersburg
One of the big halls of Catherine’s Palace in St. Petersburg
                  

The highlights of this palace is the Amber Room. Every inch of this room has mosaic with real amber, making it one of the fanciest rooms in the world. No photos are allowed in this room, there were many guards standing looking over everyone making sure no one pointed their cameras at the walls.

Do plan to stay in the garden here as it is not only huge but also very beautiful with unique architecture, lakes, statues, and meadows. Many other small palaces and parks are in the same complex where you can wander around for a whole day.

Garden of Tsars' Village in St. Petersburg
Garden of Tsars’ Village in St. Petersburg
             

Inside the palace everything was written in Russian here, thanks to our guide for explaining all the details, otherwise audio guide is highly recommended.

4) PETER and PAUL FORTRESS: Our last stop for the 1st day was Peter and Paul Fortress. It is beautifully situated by Neva River. The fortress has a big compound with some museums, church, parks, and etc.

Peter and Paul Fortress by Neva River in St. Petersburg
Peter and Paul Fortress by Neva River in St. Petersburg
              

Cathedral inside the fortress compound is the burial place of all Romanov Tsars of Russia starting from Peter the Great to the last Tsar, except for three royal members. Nicholas II, his wife, their 3 daughters, and servants are all in one tomb located at one side of this cathedral in the Chapel of St. Catherine the Martyr. Since they were brutally murdered their faces were not recognizable, so they were all put in one tomb. One of the interesting facts about this cathedral that many people don’t know about is that it houses a piece of tunic that Jesus wore during his crucifixion. You can see it in a glass box in front of the altar.

Some royal tombs of Russian emperors inside the cathedral of Peter and Paul Fortress in St. Peterburg
Some royal tombs of Russian emperors inside the cathedral of Peter and Paul Fortress in St. Peterburg
                 

Inside the cathedral is extremely gorgeous and richly decorated. Look at the ceiling with frescoes and pretty chandeliers hanging from it. Its massive altar is gilded with 12 kg of gold with tombs of Peter the Great, his wife Catherine I, their daughter Elizabeth, and Catherine II in the front. Other tombs of Tsars and their families are spread around the whole cathedral. On the wall in you can see flags of soldiers from Russian-Turk War. The beautiful pulpit was never used.

Stunningly decorated the cathedral inside Peter and Paul Fortress in St. Petersburg
Stunningly decorated cathedral inside Peter and Paul Fortress in St. Petersburg
               

Opposite of the cathedral, red brick building, is the artillery museum. Mint museum is also located here. Walk around the park here and you will see Monument to Peter the Great with small head and big body, which was true in his real life too.

5) BOAT RIDE on NEVA RIVER: The next day our tour started with a boat ride on Neva River that runs thru the heart of St. Petersburg. It was a 30 minutes ride and we got to see some of the highlights of this city in a glimpse, like Peter and Paul Fortress, domes of Church on Spilled Blood, and Hermitage Museum. Some important buildings, palaces, historic ships on the water, and bold bridges were all part of this trip. Make sure to grab a blanket as it can be a bit chilly in the morning depending on when you are visiting St. Petersburg.

A line of historic palaces and old buildings by Neva River in St. Petersburg
A line of historic palaces and old buildings by Neva River in St. Petersburg
         

6) SUBWAY RIDE: Our guide took us to one of the stations of St. Petersburg just to show how grand the subways are here. Most of the stations here are very historic and like museums. Russians love their subways and are very proud of it. And of course there are reasons to be proud too: most of these stations go about 115 feet deep underground and they have the fastest metro in Europe. You won’t see any graffiti on the walls because people will be apprehended for that. Each station is decorated with mosaics and other wall arts according to its name and theme. Also, the stations have free Wi-Fi too!

Subway in St. Petersburg, Russia - famous for its depth and fastest metro service
Subway in St. Petersburg, Russia – famous for its depth and fastest metro service
               

7) HERMITAGE MUSEUM in WINTER RESIDENCE of TSARS: Situated by Neva River, Hermitage Museum in the Winter Palace of Romanov Dynasty is definitely one of the most beautiful buildings in Europe and the best museum in St. Petersburg. It is well known for having one of the world’s greatest and oldest collections of art, treasure, antiques, and royal artifacts.

Grand staircase of Hermitage Museum in St. Petersburg
Grand staircase of Hermitage Museum in St. Petersburg
          

The palace was burnt to ground in 1835 after a big fire that lasted for 3 days. Later it was rebuilt in the present way. You can actually see the big chandelier in one the halls that caused the fire.

Winter Residence is a grand and one of a kind Baroque palace in the world. Elegant golden motifs and leaves decorate its walls, ceilings, and doors. We walked along large halls and Tsar’s throne in a beautiful throne room. The prettiest hall here is the Peacock Room where a gold peacock clock stands at one side, Italian marble mosaics lay on the floor, and Czech crystal chandelier hang from the ceiling. But all of the rooms and halls in Hermitage Museum has famous paintings (some of Leonardo Da Vinci works are here too), large vases, golden marble columns, Flemish tapestries, and some fine exquisite decors.

Hermitage Museum in Winter Palace in St. Petersburg
Hermitage Museum in Winter Palace in St. Petersburg
           

Square in front of the museum has a statue of Tsar Alexander II and opposite is Russia’s first military headquarter.

There is a long…I mean long line at the ticket office before entering the palace. Thanks to our guide, we didn’t have to wait long enough. You have to cross a security point here. Plan to spend at least few hours to cover the whole museum and believe me it’s absolutely worth every minute. Museum is open from 10:30am to 6pm every day except Monday.

8) CHURCH on SPILLED BLOOD: This is one of the most beautiful churches I’ve seen in whole of Europe and the best looking Russian Orthodox Church in my diary yet. Constructed in 1881, this is the icon of St. Petersburg. The church was built on the spot where Tsar Alexander II was killed by terrorists. The blood wasn’t cleaned and they started building this church on top of his blood. Tourists can see the exact spot where he was assassinated.

Church on Spilled Blood in St. Petersburg, Russia
Church on Spilled Blood in St. Petersburg, Russia
            

Every inch of its walls and ceiling of is elaborately covered with Moscow style frescoes and mosaics…which is more than 5000 sq. meter of mosaic. 8 different marbles were used all around this church. Many biblical stories and depictures of different stages of Jesus’ life (like young boy Jesus, which you normally don’t see in churches) are on the walls and ceilings. They were all magnificently done by Russian architects and artists. The dazzling altar was created in Italy depicting Tsar Gate with many stones and bright colorful mosaics. Also notice the black marble pillars; we were told that these shine with moonlight.

Gorgeous frescoes and chandeliers inside Church on Spilled Blood in St. Petersburg
Gorgeous frescoes and chandeliers inside Church on Spilled Blood in St. Petersburg
              

Church on Spilled Blood is a must see in St. Petersburg and should not be missed in anyway, you won’t see anything like this in anywhere in the world.

9) ST. ISAAC’S CATHEDRAL: St. Isaac’s Cathedral is another gem and a major landmark of this city. The church built in 1818 replacing a smaller one from 1712. It has a bold exterior, a glaring interior, and the 3rd highest cupola cathedral in the world.

St. Isaac's Cathedral in St. Petersburg, the dome of it was constructed with about 300kg of real gold
St. Isaac’s Cathedral in St. Petersburg, the dome of it was constructed with about 300kg of real gold
                 

The dome of St. Isaac is made with some shocking 300kg of real gold. Made by Finnish granite, this cathedral can hold about 40,000 people inside. It’s extremely attractive interior is very lavishly designed with some extravagant vibrant colors decors. The main focus, its eye-catching grand altar has some rich mosaics and blue columns from Afghanistan. There are no chairs or organ in this cathedral, like other Russian churches. Many of Hermitage treasures were hidden underneath this cathedral during WWII.

Lavish interior of St. Isaac's Cathedral in Russia
Lavish interior of St. Isaac’s Cathedral in Russia
               

Luckily, the cathedral was not damaged in the war but some columns outside still have bomb marks. Although we didn’t climb to the top, it offers fabulous view of the city. The cathedral is located near the historic Hotel Astoria, where Hitler planned to have a victory party for capturing St. Petersburg within 3 days of entering the city but eventually the event never took place, since he could never capture St. Petersburg.

10) YUSOPOV’S PALACE: Yusopov’s Palace…our last spot in St. Petersburg. The palace itself may not be as charming as some of the other places we’ve been to in this city (after all it’s a bright yellow building), but hundreds of visitors come to this historic site to get a glance where that mysterious man, Rasputin was murdered.

Yusopov’s family was then the richest family in St. Petersburg (and I think in all Russia too). Mr. Yusopov, who was a Sheikh in Iran, was baptized later in his life and moved to Russia. He bought this house in 1856. The family was in gold, diamond, and oil business. With rich ornaments, mahogany walls and furniture, this is a great example of how rich Russians lived back then.

One of the rooms of Yusopov's Palace in St. Petersburg. Rasputin was murdered in its basement.
One of the rooms of Yusopov’s Palace in St. Petersburg. Rasputin was murdered in its basement
                

After visiting the upper part of this palace, were taken in the basement where Rasputin was killed by Mr. Yusopov’s youngest son and couple of his friends. He was then thrown into the canal in front of this building.

We have visited some cities of former USSR recently, but St. Petersburg has its own bold history and royal attitude. Knowing some of its past life and power, it actually gave me goosebumps while driving around and hearing stories from our guide. This is one of a kind place in the world…you won’t feel it unless you see it in front of your eyes.

A Wee Bit of Scottish Highlands and Loch Ness

HIGHLANDS and LOCH NESS, SCOTLAND: Scotland definitely is one of the most beautiful and diverse countries in the world and one of my most favorite place. Apart from its big and beautiful cities, highlands is the place where Scotland’s true beauty lies. This is a paradise for the photographers and nature lovers.

Driving by beautiful scenes of the Highlands in Scotland
Driving by beautiful scenes of the Highlands in Scotland
             

I wonder if it’s the natural beauty or Scotland’s whisky that made this country a hotbed of geniuses. Alexander Graham Bell, inventor of telephone was a Scottish man and so was the inventors of steam engine, bicycle, and television. The country also produced writers like Sir Walter Scot from the past to J. K. Rowling to this age. Peter Pan and Jackal & Hyde are just some of the classics that originated in this country too.

For sheer atmosphere, Scotland’s rugged and unbeatable scenery can be enjoyed when you get out of its big cities and enter into a continuous breathtaking wilderness. You get to visit Scotland’s most spectacular mountains, picturesque fjord-like lochs and a diversity of islands. Although I only saw from distance, if you are lucky you just might see some cute long-haired highland cows or may be some wild lives in their natural habitats. Wood, forests, mountains, lochs, walking, wildlife watching, water sports, fishing, golf or just taking in the view…just to name some of the things you can do in the highlands. I wish to go back there one more time again to enjoy Scotland’s vast natural beauty whole heartedly. This was a place where I could pause and create some unforgettable memories…I haven’t seen anything like this before.

Took from our moving bus...picturesque
Took from our moving bus…picturesque
                

I booked this day-trip to the Highlands through my hotel “Ailsa Craig Hotel” in Edinburgh. The company was Gray Line Scottish Coach Tours and they charge 41 GBP per adult (prices are for transport and guided coach tour only and the trip is not suitable for children). I was picked from my hotel at 7:30am and the tour started sharply at 8am. They had lots of different choices, like visiting Glasgow, Rosslyn Chapel, Stirling Castle, and etc., but the one I took was the longest of all which lasted about 12 hours. By the time I was dropped off near my hotel, it was little bit past 8pm. The tour is available every day and I think, even in winter season. The driver, who was also our guide, was a knowledgeable and a fun person who gave us history and told stories of highlands all the way; once in a while he played some Celtic and Scottish/Gaelic songs and some significant songs that tells stories on the places we’ve visited, like songs about Glen Coe Massacre when we stopped at Glen Coe and Loch Lomond song when we were passing the lake. Overall it was a memorable journey and the drive from beginning to end was jaw-dropping and pleasant, would highly recommend to anyone visiting Scotland.

Breathtaking countryside of Scotland
Breathtaking countryside of Scotland
         

As our guide put it, this trip was a just an appetizer. To enjoy Scottish Highlands to the fullest, you need to stay in the local sights and spend few days. That trip gave us only the highlights of countryside from highways and by the road-side.

TIME of TRAVEL: The day started very nicely with some cloud and little cold. But later we got drizzle and winds, or as the Scots would call it “whiskey weather”. It does get very windy up on the mountains or near the lakes. Bad part was that it started raining, kinda badly, when we took the cruise on Loch Ness. I still managed to get some pictures but I just wished it was little bit warmer and no water drops on my camera.

The best part of coming to Scotland was that I got to see the most beautiful colors of fall in the countryside, on mountains, and by the lakes. Unlike other places, falls stays in Scotland for 6 weeks, plenty of time to enjoy the rustic autumn color or to photograph them.

MY HOTEL: Please see my page on Edinburgh to see the hotel I stayed in during my trip to Scotland.

PLACES I’VE VISITED: The total journey of this trip was 360 miles/600 km in 12 hours. And the highest point we’ve visited here was about 1016 ft. above sea level. Hope you like the pictures I took along this journey.

Passing by some snow-capped mountains in the Highlands
Passing by some snow-capped mountains in the Highlands
              

After our bus got out of the city and started toward the countryside, we passed few castles and monuments, like Doune Castle and Wallace Monument. Another historic landmark we passed by was the field of Battle of Bannockburn. Robert the Bruce fought here in the 14th century with King Edward II of England for Scotland’s freedom and Scotland won victoriously.

After passing one of the famous lochs/lakes of Scotland, Loch Lomond, we stopped in the dark brooding Pass of Glen Coe (meaning “Valley of the Weeping” in Gaelic). Here we stopped for 5 minutes to take some photos…in the rain. This beautiful valley got famous after the massacre of 1692 where 180 people (including women and children) were murdered by the English. Glen Coe looked like a very beautiful valley w/snow-capped mountains, small hills, creeks, and water falls. It looked stunning even in rain.

Continuously beautiful...
Continuously beautiful…
           

While we were heading for Loch Ness, we saw the mountain range Nevis and many other big and small lakes and rivers. We were lucky to see the highest mountain of Britain, Ben Nevis, (also known as “Scotland’s Outdoor Capital”) on our way too.

Main highlight of this tour was visiting the famous Loch Ness. So here we were in Fort Augustus for our lunch break and our cruise on Loch Ness. Cruise is optional in tour and costs additional 12 GBP per person. Most of the people in our group took this cruise…to see Nessie, the Loch Ness monster. Yep, even the cruise has hi-tech sonar under water imaging system that provides you with the best chance to see what really lies at the bottom of the famous Loch Ness.

Our boat awaits for the cruise on Loch Ness
Our boat awaits for the cruise on Loch Ness
            

We had about 1 ½ hours to spend in Fort Augustus to eat and look around before getting on board. Fort Augustus is a bustling little touristic town which becomes really slow and quiet during the winter time. I had some meat pasty for lunch, although there were some nice restaurants in the town to sit down and relax… I preferred walking while eating.

A small house by Loch Ness
A small house by Loch Ness
             

Loch Ness is an 800 ft. deep and 270 miles long lake, making it the longest lake in Scotland. When the boat leaves the harbor you can see St. Augustus Abbey at one side from a little distance. As I mentioned above, for those who are fanatic about finding Nessie the Loch Ness monster, the boat is equipped with an underwater camera system, tourists can view on a TV what is really beneath the boat. But while we were all looking for Nessie, I was having good time looking at many shades of fall by the lake’s bank and nearby hills.

Fall in Scotland, while cruising on Loch Ness
Fall in Scotland, while cruising on Loch Ness
             

After we were done with our cruise, we started driving to north again along the entire length of Loch Ness, stopping next at Urquhart Castle. The water near the castle has the deepest point at 800 ft. We just stopped for 5 minutes again to snap some pictures of this old castle. Urquhart Castle is a 15th century castle which is in ruins now. This 15th century photogenic place is shown in most of the Scottish calendars. We only saw the skeleton of it from a distance and barely managed to take some photos. But the castle is open all year round and tourists can pay a fee to visit it.

Urquhart Castle by Loch Ness in Scotland
Urquhart Castle by Loch Ness in Scotland
            

It was almost after dark when we reached Inverness, the Highland capital. Of course Inverness is a big city and you really have to stay here overnight to actually visit all the places here. It looked very beautiful as we drove thru its old town passing some old and new buildings and small squares…wish we could stop somewhere for little bit to take some photos.

Pitlochry was our last stop before heading back to Edinburgh. It has a delightful Victorian resort town, nice place for shopping and spend couple hours. But it was too dark by then and everything closes early in the winter time.

And as the final site, we saw the gorgeous railway bridge, Forth Bridge (3rd in top 10 bridges of world), before arriving back in Edinburgh. Too bad I couldn’t take any picture from our moving bus. It was built in 1890 and is one most iconic railway structure in the world.

So, we spent about 12 hours in this trip driving on Scottish Highlands, passing many villages, famous lochs, green meadows, historic castles and monuments, and finally got to see the famous Loch Ness where Nessie the Loch Ness monster lives. We did try our best to see him but he was hiding so deep in the water, we missed him this time…uh, maybe next time Nessie, I will be back in Scotland again to have a cup of tea and Scottish fudge with you…till then stay cool.

One of my favorite capitals in the world – Edinburgh

EDINBURGH, SCOTLAND: Edinburgh is a city steeped in stories, myths, and legends. Enclosed by Nor Loch, Edinburgh has been the royal capital of Scotland since 1437. While ancient volcanic activity shaped its landscape, many medieval relics made its history more charming and intriguing.

Panoramic view of the city and Nor Loch from Edinburgh Castle
Panoramic view of the city and Nor Loch from Edinburgh Castle
          

Edinburgh’s Old Town was also shaped by prehistoric volcanic activity. Built on a steep volcanic rock that protected the Castle and town from attack, the town developed along the ridge, Royal Mile that runs from the Castle to Holyrood Palace. The growth of the town was constricted by its medieval boundaries. Therefore, Edinburgh couldn’t expand outwards, so it started rising upwards with multistory buildings. The city is enclosed south and north by Loch Nor.

Royal Mile - the backbone of Old Edinburgh. Scottish Parliament (on the right) and Holyrood Palace (in the back)
Royal Mile – the backbone of Old Edinburgh. Scottish Parliament (on the right) and Holyrood Palace (in the back)
                      

Edinburgh might have an enriched history but it definitely doesn’t live in the past. The medieval Old Town contrasts sharply with the Georgian New Town and they are both part of UNESCO World Heritage Site now. New Town was known as the Athens of north once, while the Old Town, known as the original Manhattan, was a place for the poor in the middle age. Getting around the city is fairly easy here which can be done on foot. Walking is highly recommended here because it gives you time to soak up the real Edinburgh at your own pace.

Walking on Royal Mile in Edinburgh
Walking on Royal Mile in Edinburgh
               

I have visited other capitals of Great Britain, like London and Belfast, or even Dublin in Ireland. But in my opinion Scotland is nothing like that and has more scenic beauty and thrills than any of those cities. I left Edinburgh feeling absolutely satisfied and content that I had a chance of visiting this place.

TIME of TRAVEL: I visited Edinburgh in the middle of November 2013. This is actually off-season to visit this place, because the weather can be unpredictable at this time. Expect cold, wind, rain with little or no sunshine in November. But I was told that if you are coming here for the first time or just for sight-seeing, it’s better to avoid August, because some big festivals take place in this month and can get really crowded with thousands of locals and tourists.

MY HOTEL: My hotel (or should I say hostel?), Ailsa Craig Hotel on Royal Terrace (right beside Crowne Plaza), was ok for me since I was traveling alone this time, leaving my husband and daughters back in Belgium (my husband was kind enough to babysit the girls while I took a solo vacation). The hotel was about 20 – 25 minutes of long walk from Waverly Bridge bus station. When I reached the hotel I was told that the internet isn’t working, there is no elevator to go to my room on the 3rd floor, and that there is no bathroom inside my room. I tried my best not to be shocked when he said bathroom is a shared common one for all the 3rd floor rooms. Good thing there was at least a sink with a mirror in my room and had free breakfast but the bad thing was all the rooms are so close to each other that I could hear a baby crying opposite to my room whole time the first night. The best part of it was that hotel had some very friendly and helpful staffs. I booked my Scottish Highland and Loch Ness tour thru them; the guy even gave me some tips on where to go for taking early morning photographs. The location of the hotel wasn’t bad either. It was only about 15 minutes of walk from Holyrood Palace on Royal Mile.

Last night in Edinburgh I stayed in Hilton near the airport since I had an early morning flight to catch. It’s only 5 minutes of walk from the airport.

EATING and SHOPPING: My 1st dinner here was at a Nepalese/Tibetan restaurant, Gurkha Brigade on Leith Walk. I was in the mood for some spices and hot stuff and you can get good spicy food here for a nice price. There were few other Indian restaurants on this street. Mediterranean and Italian were some other options I had. For the 2nd night, I came here again to try an Indian restaurant. This was “Passage To India” opposite of Theater Royal. They had some Punjabi specialty food…again, good food with a cheap bill.

I wasn’t getting time to try haggis, one of the most famous Scottish food that tourists try, all this time. So, when I was in Edinburgh Castle, I saw their café is selling haggis. Here is some information on what haggis is, took it from the café’s menu: “Haggis is savory pudding containing sheep’s pluck (heart, liver, and lungs); minced with onion, oatmeal, spices, and salt, mixed with stock, and traditionally encased in the animal’s stomach. Traditionally served with swede/turnip and mashed potatoes”. But let me tell you I was VERY disappointed after tasting that dish. It was a big dish and I could barely eat 1/3 of it. May be I should have tried in different place or something but left a disgusting taste in my mouth for the next couple hours. So after visiting Edinburgh Castle when I was taking a stroll on Royal Mile and going back towards my hotel after dark, I saw another Bangladeshi/Indian restaurant on Royal Mile and just went inside without giving a second thought. It was a bit early dinner for me at 4:30 but couldn’t resist. It is called “Shamoli” where they had Indian and Thai dishes…very good.

Haggis in Edinburgh Castle
Haggis in Edinburgh Castle
              

For shopping, if you are into Scottish kilts, you will find many on Royal Mile. Of course these stores/showrooms on Royal Mile are nothing but tourist traps and should be avoided if time spares. There were many small stores off of Royal Mile, just have to take turn on one of the small streets and you will find same quality products at much cheaper price. Cashmere is very popular here. Lamb wool items, like scarves, sweaters, and etc. can be found at various price and quality. Buy some Celtic jewelries, bagpipes CDs, or Scottish fudge and toffees here.

Some Scottish souvenirs in one of the stores on Royal Mile, Edinburgh
Some Scottish souvenirs in one of the stores on Royal Mile, Edinburgh
              

PLACES I’VE VISITED: I had only a day…a whole day to explore Edinburgh. While it was not nearly enough for this city of so much to take in, I had to hop through only the main highlights of it. I started my tour very early morning at one side of Royal Mile at Canongate. I just followed Royal Mile and checked out whatever was on my way till I reached Edinburgh Castle. Royal Mile may be a heavily touristic area but I just loved its charismatic look and attitude. This is the backbone of medieval Edinburgh that runs from Holyrood Palace all the way to Edinburgh Castle. Most of the main sites are on this street. You will be amazed by all the old and historic buildings that line up on both sides of Royal Mile and all the souvenir shops, cafes, restaurants keep this place lively day or night. Royal Mile is not a pedestrian zone but not heavily crowded by cars either.

An old cemetery on Royal Mile
An old cemetery on Royal Mile
            

For panoramic view of Old or New Town and further beyond, you can climb Arthur’s Seat (which supposed to offer spectacular sunrise) or Calton Hill. I couldn’t go to any of those but definitely nice place to get great some great views.

1) PALACE of HOLYROODHOUSE: This has been the royal residence of Royal Scottish family for more than 500 years.  Her Majesty the Queen of Scotland visits and stays here every summer and no tourists are allowed at that time of the year. Presently, other than being a formal residence, many official matters of Scotland are conducted here.

Front courtyard is a grand place with a beautiful fountain and grand façade of palace in front of you. Arthur’s Seat, a volcanic hill created thousands of years ago, can be seen from here too.

Front facade of Holyrood Palace at one end of Royal Mile, Edinburgh
Front facade of Holyrood Palace at one end of Royal Mile, Edinburgh
             

The palace houses some of the magnificent collection of art of Royal history. The Royal and Historic Apartments at the palace are regularly used by the Queen and Members of the Royal Family to receive and entertain their guests on ceremonial and official occasions and are furnished with treasures from the Royal Collection. Historic Apartments include Mary, Queen of Scots’ Chambers – the setting for many dramatic episodes in Mary’s turbulent reign. This is where Mary’s secretary Rizzio was murdered in front of pregnant Mary by her husband Lord Darnley.

Some of the other important rooms in the palace are: Queen’s Bedchamber and King’s Bedchamber which are still decorated in the 17th century’s original style. Royal Dining Room and Throne Room were marvelous too. Along with all these rooms notice Great Gallery where Sean Connery was awarded along with many other achievers. Many antiques, old musical instruments, other 17th century furniture, decoration, and plastered ceiling set a unique mode of this place. I asked one of the attendants why all these rooms had really old, discolored, and worn-out fabrics and linens. Interestingly, the Royal Family doesn’t want to change their century old and generation old decors.

Holyrood Abbey comes at the very end of the tour and leaves a majestic memory of this whole place. This is a dramatic picturesque ruin site with ancient altar, columns, and Gothic walls. Founded by King David I in 1128 Holyrood Abbey was altered and expanded over the centuries. By 1500 this was one of the largest and most impressive monasteries in Scotland. Currently, the only surviving part of the once much larger abbey complex are the nave and its surrounding walls.  The palace garden was closed (only opens in summer) and so was the Queen’s Gallery which hosts changing exhibitions from the Royal Collection. Ticket is separate for the gallery.

Ruins of Holyrood Abbey in Edinburgh
Ruins of Holyrood Abbey in Edinburgh
            

I couldn’t take any photos inside the Royal and Historic Apartments since it is an active palace, but in the abbey or courtyard is ok. Ticket includes a detailed audio guide. It took me about 1 ½ hours to tour the palace in a slow pace. The palace is open daily from 9:30am except Good Friday, 25 – 26 December and during royal visits.

2) SCOTTISH PARLIAMENT: Only a few steps from Holyrood Palace, on its opposite side of the street, is the Scottish Parliament. It’s an award-winning home of the Scottish Parliament in the heart of Edinburgh’s Old Town. The parliament truly is a stylish and contemporary state of the art building and looks nothing like a traditional parliament house.

Debate Chamber of Scottish Parliament
Debate Chamber of Scottish Parliament
            

Access to the building is free, just have to go through a security checkpoint. Visitors can join free guided-tour of 50 minutes (have to book ahead of time) to discover the art and architecture of the parliament and how it works. I toured the parliament by myself and therefore couldn’t visit some of the private chambers and stuff. But still could explore the public areas, like the Debating Chamber, exhibition center, Main Hall, and Garden Lobby. There is also a café and a gift shop inside the parliament.

3) THE MUSEUM of EDINBURGH: As I was walking toward the Edinburgh Castle on Royal Mile, “The Museum of Edinburgh” came into my attention and decided to check it out. This is city’s treasure box filled with iconic objects from the capital’s past. The house itself is a well-preserved group of 16th to 18th century domestic buildings. It’s a journey thru time giving you a brief history of how the city developed. Many paintings, silverwares, glass arts, artistic potteries, and 18th century ceramics are displayed in 3 different floors.

“Foundation Edinburgh: the story of a city” is a 17-minutes video tour inside the museum that gives you a fascinating story of Scotland’s capital from prehistory to the present day shown in a blacked-out theater. Watch the city grow beneath your feet on a screen built into the floor – from the volcanic creation of Arthur’s Seat in prehistoric times thru the ages. The video runs every half hour throughout the day and costs 4 GBP.

The best part of this museum is that it’s free to enter. Opening times are Monday to Saturday: 10am – 5pm and Sunday: 12pm – 5pm (August only).

4) ST. GILES CATHEDRAL: This is an eye-catching architecture from the 13th century standing on Royal Mile in between Holyrood Palace and Edinburgh Castle. St. Giles Cathedral is probably the most famous and historic cathedral of the country. Ancient pillars and dazzling windows are something to appreciate here. Inside the cathedral is very majestic and grand just like its outer look. Do check out the unique crowned spire of this cathedral. It’s free to enter but had to pay 2 GBP for taking photos.

St. Giles Cathedral on Royal Mile in Edinburgh
St. Giles Cathedral on Royal Mile in Edinburgh
              

5) EDINBURGH CASTLE: At the other end of Royal Mile on one of the highest point of the city is Edinburgh Castle. This is a national icon of Scotland and itself is a storyteller of Edinburgh. No trip to Edinburgh is ever complete without a trip to the imposing castle. This was once a mighty fortress, the defender of the nation, and home of the famous Royal Edinburgh Military. The castle has dominated city’s skyline and looked over the famous Royal Mile for centuries. Now it is enlisted in UNESCO World Heritage Site. Its imposing walls have provided sanctuary and protection for many of Scotland’s kings and queens. The castle is in very good condition and ‘til today its walls have protected countless treasures of the city and the country. There are too much to see and take in here. I didn’t even realize how few hours went by walking on the cobblestone of this magnificent fortress and being amazed by its century old interiors.

Looking over Edinburgh from the castle
Looking over Edinburgh from the castle
                 

It slipped my mind but visitors can gather at 1pm near the One O’clock Gun to see the master-gunner fire the gun everyday…a traditional that has been carried out almost daily since 1861, except Sundays, Christmas Day and Good Friday. Make sure to visit the quiet and small St. Margaret’s Chapel which is the oldest building in Edinburgh from 12th century. Two of the top highlights of this castle are The Crown Room and Royal Palace. Crown Room is where Scotland’s glittering crown jewels, crown, scepter, Sword of State (which was used in the coronation of Mary Queen of Scots in 1543) and the historic Stone of Destiny located. The Royal Crown came back to Scotland from England in 1996 after 700 years. It’s from 1540 AD, and made with Scottish gold, engraved, enameled, and ornamented with gemstones including diamond, garnets, amethysts, and quartz. Royal Palace was the residence of the steward Kings and Queens in the 15th and 16th centuries. This is where Mary Queen of Scotland gave birth to James VI in 1566 (man behind the King James Version of Bible). It takes about 30 minutes just visit these Scottish treasures and read up on their fascinating history. Close to the Royal Palace is the Scottish National War Memorial…a shrine to those Scotsmen of all ranks who fell in conflict from World War onwards.  In the same courtyard where the Victorian Great Hall located is where tourists can be amazed by the original hammer-beam roof. Built in the late 15th century as a majestic setting for ceremonial occasions it is still used today for state and royal functions. The hall also holds a fabulous display of arms and armors as well as the “key” to the castle. Last but not least, I visited the Prisons of War which is a must-see in Edinburgh Castle. This is an atmospheric recreation of the life of prisoners at the end of the 18th century.

Royal Palace (front) and Great Hall (right) in Edinburgh Castle
Royal Palace (front) and Great Hall (right) in Edinburgh Castle
             

Other than the above that I visited, there are other museums here that may interest some visitors: The National War Museum of Scotland which hosts two individual regimental museums. But besides all mind-boggling history and artifacts that the castle offer to its guests, it also has views across the capital, over the Firth of Forth and into Fife. Enjoy the panoramic views from all of the castle walls.

Lost in Edinburgh Castle
Lost in Edinburgh Castle
          

Adult ticket is 16 GBP per adult and 9.60 GBP for kids. Audio guide (available in many languages) is extra 3 GBP but highly recommended. It’s about 4 ½ hours long, but you can skip through some chapters and listen to the ones only interest you. There are more than one gift shops all around the castle and a café and a tea room. Do plan to stay here few hours.

6) MARY KING’S CLOSE: This is the REAL Mary King’s Close underneath Royal Mile of Edinburgh that once used to exist as part of a medieval city from 1622. Opposite to St. Giles Cathedral, the entrance to Mary King’ Close is through Warriston’s Close. “Closes” are basically small alleys from big streets that existed (still exist actually) in the old town of Edinburgh few centuries ago. Mary King’s Close is one such “Close” from that time which was eventually sealed by the authority to develop newer city on top of it. This is a slice of Edinburgh’s medieval history and shouldn’t be missed. Buried deep beneath Edinburgh’s Royal Mile lies the city’s hidden streets that remained frozen in time since the 17th century.

I haven’t visited a place quite like Mary King’ Close before. This is one unique tour that everyone should take in Edinburgh. With a guide, visitors can explore 4 main medieval streets of this area and experience what it was really like for the people who lived, worked, and died here. We had a chance to meet some prominent people of the “close” too. You get to hear how this once bustling environment was sealed. This is an important piece of Edinburgh’s rich history which reveals a fascinating underground network of hidden closes and rooms. If you are like me, who is tickled by medieval history and legends, take this tour and you won’t regret.

This is an educational, interactive, and fun tour; I enjoyed it very much. Our guide was a superb actress and a knowledgeable girl. She told us some legends and myths that went around during that time while we were walking thru some very well-preserved dark alleys and houses. This spooky trip is not suitable for kids or someone who is claustrophobic.”. It’s 12.95 GBP per adult for an hour tour with a guide. And sorry, no photos are allowed inside the close…