TOURNAI, BELGIUM: Interestingly, Tournai (or “Doornik” in Dutch) is a French-speaking Flemish town of Belgium. Meaning it is in Wallon region (French part) with lots of Flanders (Dutch) influences. This is in the Province of Hainaut which is very scenic and traditionally, rich in culture and heritage. Situated by River Scheldt, this is considered as one of the oldest cities in Belgium. It was badly damaged during WWII. Since then the city authority has been restoring the city to its old glory. If you are in Brussels and want to visit a less touristy city of Belgium, Tournai makes a perfect day-trip from the capital of Europe.
This was the religious capital of Flanders many centuries ago. Tournai marble/limestone is well-known in this region and was once used for sculpted items, especially in churches.
TIME of TRAVEL: We visited Tournai in March of 2013. It was a cold Saturday in Belgium. Everything was empty in Grand Place and other parts of Tournai.
EATING and SHOPPING: Old town, especially Grand Place had some restaurants, cafés, and quick food places. I can’t even remember where we had lunch or if we had lunch in Tournai at all.
Historically, tapestries and draperies of Tournai are very famous and belong to the great Flemish school of tapestry. Being a Belgian city, you will find many chocolates and waffle stores by default. Grand Place had plenty of other stores for shopping too.
PLACES WE’VE VISITED: We literally spent only couple hours in Tournai. There are lots of things to do here. Since the weather wasn’t very pleasant, we kind of hurried and took a crush tour thru the city. Although we didn’t visit them, two of the oldest private houses in Europe (from the 12th century) are located in Tournai. If you can manage, visit the old city gates, museums, and Pont-des-Trous…a 13th century bridge on River Scheldt.
1) GRAND PLACE and CLOTH HALL: Grand Place is main square or heart of Tournai, like any other Belgian cities. It has several old buildings from the 15th and 16th century. There was a big fountain in the middle which was closed due to chilly weather outside (?).
2) SAINT QUETIN CHURCH: This is an old and beautiful church in Grand Place. The building caught our eyes and entrance was free to go inside, so wanted to check it out. It is a nice big church, and you can tell it has been standing there for a few centuries.
3) THE CATHEDRAL of NOTRE DAME de TOURNAI: This Romanesque and Gothic style cathedral is a UNESCO World Heritage Site of Tournai. The original cathedral on this spot was built somewhere around the 5th century. The current look of the cathedral is from the 12th century. The nave is in the Romanesque style and inspired by Norman churches. Later, the vaulting of the transept and the construction of the chancel were inspired by the Gothic period, with very high walls. The Gothic choir of this cathedral is a Flemish art element, very typical of this region.
4) BELFRY of TOURNAI: This is the oldest belfry in Belgium and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The construction of Tournai Bell Tower started from 1188. The spire is crowned by a dragon and the turrets are topped by statues of soldiers defending the city. The tower is 70 meters high and there are 257 steps leading to the top. It was closed and we couldn’t go up to the top.
5) LE CHATEAU de BELOEIL: After we were done with Tournai and heading home, we took saw a sign on the road side for this castle or château. Feeling curious, both my husband and I were curious to see this castle. After lots of twisting and turnings, we finally reached Le Chateau de Boleil. If I am not mistaking this small town in Wallonia is called Beloeil. The château sits on a majestic pond surrounded by beautiful landscape. The castle belonged to the princes “de Ligne” dynasty is one of thirty generations of lords, vice-rois, ambassadors, senators, warlords, writers, aviators, settled in Beloeil since 1394.
We didn’t go inside the castle and not sure if it can be visited at all. But it holds some fine paintings, furniture, and dishes dating essentially from the 14th century. Library of this castle is famous of housing some 20,000 old leather books.
6) CHATEAU d’ATTRE: This was another château or castle we passed by while heading back home from Chateau de Beloeil. This was more like a big mansion in a beautiful setting. From the outside information board, it looked like that the castle and its park are open to visitors.
HANNOVER, GERMANY: Hannover was one of the hardest hit cities during WWII. The city was left with only few historic landmarks after the war. It’s not a typical European city with pretty centuries-old buildings. Hannover has an energetic and thriving city center. The city is very modern and a good place for shopping or spend a day.
If you like to get to know Hannover on your own, there is a Red Thread – your personal tour guide. It’s a 4,200 meter long line on the sidewalk by the City of Hannover and leads you to the architectural, historical, and entertaining attractions. Accompanying literature and map can be obtained from the Tourist Information Hannover. We followed this Red Thread to discover Hannover…it was simple and doable on foot. It touches all the main spots of this city.
TIME of TRAVEL: So, after about 12 days of our winter road trip during Christmas holiday in 2013 comes to an end with a visit to Hannover, Germany. We drove from Brussels to Fussen, to Innsbruck, then Salzburg, to Prague, to Dresden, then Leipzig, and then finally to Hannover. It was cold here which was ok but then it started to drizzle towards the end of the day. At least it wasn’t snowing…
OUR HOTEL: This hotel we stayed in Hannover, Novotel, was a little far from the city center. We walked at least 20 minutes to get to the heart of Hannover. The walking was nice because we went through some local shops, passed few streets, and saw other parts of the city. Novotel is a popular hotel chain in Europe (not sure about other continents). They didn’t have breakfast but had free Wi-Fi. The best part was that there was an awesome Italian restaurant only a block away from our hotel where we had dinner twice.
EATING and SHOPPING: Kropcke and its surrounding areas are probably the best place to have meal in Hannover. It’s a crowded place with tons of choices to eat. You can get from street food to luxurious and fancy restaurants all in this pedestrian zone.
Again whole city center of Hannover is a marvelous place for shopping with many including some upscale brand stores and local boutique stores. Take a stroll through the elegant street of Georgestrasse, the top shopping destination for fine clothes and accessories.
PLACES WE’VE VISITED: We had a whole day to spend in Hannover. Other than the following places, Hannover’s main train station, Hauptbahnof is something to take a look at. It was built in 1879 and is known as Germany’s finest station. But wait, it’s not just any other train stations, it’s an outstanding shopping arcade too with lots of restaurants and snack-bars. We were there to take a short-ride back to our hotel from the city center at night…and it looked gorgeous with all the Christmas lighting.
Hannover also has lots of museums, like Hannover State Museum, Historic Museum, as well as many modern architecture to please your eyes.
1) KROPCKE: This is the historic city center and a meeting point for both young and old. This large pedestrian area in the heart of Hannover is a major shopping spot. You won’t have hard time choosing a restaurant here because there are tons of them.
2) OLD TOWN or ALSTADT: This is a delightful area with numerous half-timbered houses and romantic spots.
3) MARKET CHURCH: Built in 1359, this is a splendid example of German Brick Gothic style. It is an old building with simple altar and simple decorations. The organ looked newer compared to the other items in the church.
4) LEINE CASTLE: We passed by this old castle in the middle of the city. Don’t really know much of the history behind it. River Leine cuts thru the city here in front of this castle. It was in our Red Thread guide, but didn’t go inside.
5) MUSEUM AUGUST KESTNER: The museum is named after August Kestner (1777 – 1853) who collected a considerable number of Egyptian and Greco-Roman craftwork as well as other art objects. His nephew inherited the collection with the proviso that it has to be presented to his native City of Hannover.
This is an interesting and one of a kind museum. Don’t miss collections from Egypt, as well as exhibits from the classical antiquity, history of design, and Coin Cabinet. Loved its antique and contemporary collections of artistic objects.
There is a cafeteria and a shop inside the museum. It has three levels and took us about little more than an hour to look around. It’s located beside New Town Hall of Hannover. Visitors can enter free on every Friday.
6) NEW CITY HALL: This is one attractive building in this city from the early 1900s. With a striking domed tower, this is a magnificent edifice dating from the Wilhelminian period. Inside the city hall is as beautiful as its front façade. We only stayed there for few minutes. Other than the building itself, something to see here is the different phases and faces of Hannover throughout its history. Miniature model city depictions show Hannover in the middle age, before and after WWII, and present time (1689, 1939, 1945, and 2000). You can see how Hannover got its present look…it’s fascinating.
We didn’t take any tour here, although it’s available. There is no fee just to go in and check out its interior. You can visit its dome for a panoramic view with a little fee.
7) AEGIDIEN CHURCH: This is a 14th century church which was destroyed in WWII. They didn’t reconstruct this church and kept it as a memorial to the victims of war. There is a Hiroshima Peace Bell near where the old altar used to be. Only the skeleton of this church still stands to remind us all the damages a war can do.
8) HANNOVER OPERA: This is another fantastic architecture of Hannover. It was built in 1852 and was ranked by the opera guide published in London as one of the ten best in the world.
LEIPZIG, GERMANY: Leipzig is one of the largest cities of Saxony in Germany. Honestly, I wasn’t that excited about coming here, especially after visiting cities like Salzburg and Prague in this trip. Yes, of course, the city is ultra-modern and its city center is an energetic and vibrant place to hang out. But when my husband told me that Leipzig is the city where classical music composer Bach was born, my enthusiasm came back right away. We saw Beethoven’s birthplace in Bonn, Germany few months ago and Mozart’s birthplace few years ago (also again in this trip in Salzburg, Austria). Visiting Bach’s birthplace was almost like an obligation to me.
So, yes, Leipzig is the city of famous composer Johann Sebastian Bach. He was born here and spent 27 years of his life writing many of his most well-known music in this city. Bach’s main places of activity, St. Thomas Church and St. Nicholas Church are still standing in the main city center. Bach Museum holds Bach Festival each year in Leipzig, may be a good time for the Bach fans to visit this city.
Other than that Leipzig has Germany’s 2nd oldest university, The University of Leipzig, which was founded in 1409. The city also boasts for being the home of St. Nicholas Church (see below) which was the starting point of peaceful demonstrations against the communist regime which led to German Reunification.
TIME of TRAVEL: After visiting Fussen (Germany), Innsbruck, Salzburg (Austria), Prague (Czech Republic), Dresden (Germany) during our Christmas road trip in 2013 we arrived in Leipzig, Germany. Weather was fantastic, not freezing cold which I was scared about traveling to Germany in December.
OUR HOTEL: Our hotel in Leipzig was Novotel. It’s a well reputed hotel in Europe. We stayed in Novotel at different times in different cities. It was a fantastic location right across the main train station of Leipzig (Hauptabahnof) and only 5 minutes of walk from the city center. Hotel didn’t have free breakfast but had complementary Wi-Fi in the room. Bottom line is the location was good, especially with the kids. We could just walk across the street to the train station for many option of meal and breakfast.
EATING and SHOPPING: We did couple of our meals in Leipzig train station or Hauptabahnof. Station had some good pastries shops, fast foods, Pizza Hut, local chains, and other good places to eat. On New Year’s day we had dinner in old town in an Indian restaurant called India Gate. Leipzig old town/city center has at least five Indian restaurants here and there…we had to try at least one from there. India Gate was very nice place and the food was good too.
In old town, Grimmaische Strasse is a pedestrian street where tons and tons of stores are located. You can find brand name, local shops, boutique stores, and etc. on this street. Even if you don’t do any shopping it’s nice to just walk around and look thru to do some window-shopping. Another place of shopping would be the main train station, Hauptabahnof. It is a station alright, but looked more like a gorgeous shopping mall to me. Something special to buy from Leipzig is Bach’s CDs and other souvenirs related to him. I bought a Bach CD from Bach Museum.
PLACES WE’VE VISITED: We spent about a day and half in Leipzig. We could have done it in a day but Bach Museum was closed on the New Year’s Eve, so we had to wait ‘til the next day to visit it, after all it would be a crime to leave Leipzig without visiting his museum.
The city center or old town of Leipzig has a modern look with some old buildings standing shoulder to shoulder with many new architectures. These historical buildings were mostly constructed by the merchants in the old days. Old town is not that big and we covered it on foot.
1) ST. NICHOLAS CHURCH or NIKOLAIKIRCHE: As I mentioned above, St. Nicholas Church was the starting point of a peaceful demonstrations against the communist regime which led to German Reunification in 1989. It is that historic church also where Johann Sebastian Bach performed regularly during his lifetime. Nikolaikirche is the largest church in Leipzig with the biggest organ in whole of Saxony. But other than all these historical stats, this is an elegant looking church. From outside, you may not think so, but inside is sophisticatedly decorated and looks more contemporary than other German churches…a must-see place in Leipzig.
The church is located on the pedestrian zone of old town on Nikolaistrasse.
2) BATTLE of the NATIONS MONUMENT or VOLKERSCHLACHTDENKMAL: Built in 1813, this is the biggest monument in Europe. It commemorates the great Battle of Leipzig of the Napoleonic Wars where Napoleon was defeated at the cost of 100,000 lives. You can’t leave Leipzig without visiting this.
Since we went there on the January 1st, everything was closed. We only walked around the monument and went up the stairs just to look around from outside. When open, tourists can visit its upper observation platform, the dome, different galleries, hall of fame, and crypt. There are many steps to climb but if you can go all the way to top a fantastic view awaits as a reward.
We took tram #15 from Hauptabahnof (Leipzig’s main train station) to go there. After 8/9 stations, we got off at Meusdorf. There is a ticket to enter the museum and go inside the monument.
3) AUGUSTUSPLATZ: This is more like a modern shopping district in city center. You can see a nice blend of old and new buildings here. We came here both during day and at night and it’s a lively square to hang out anytime of the day.
4) MARKT: This is a big square on Grimmaische Strasse where old town hall still stands. The old town hall houses some shops now. Christmas lightings looked fantastic at night.
5) BACH MUSEUM: Few steps further from Markt is Bach Museum. The building of Bach Museum once used to be the residence of Bose family in St. Thomas Square. They were affluent merchants of Leipzig back then and very close friends of the Bachs. Bach family lived in St. Thomas School which stood right across from the museum until it was demolished in 1902. Bach was from a renowned music family and for 27 years this square was Bach’s immediate environment. This is where he composed many of his most significant works. The museum gives a detailed account of the life, childhood, career as a musician, stories, and works of Johann Sebastian Bach. The permanent exhibition conveys a vivid impression of his music and displays original Bach manuscripts.
Bach appreciated no other musical instrument as he did the organ; he was an organ expert. Among the most interesting exhibits is the organ console from the St. John’s Church is the last relic of a Bach organ in Leipzig. Bach himself played it in the year 1743. Visit a double bass that was part of his orchestra and an iron chest – the only surviving piece of furniture from Bach’s household. A special highlight of the museum is the treasure chamber in which original Bach manuscripts are on display.
There are few listening booths in the museum to immerse yourself in Bach’s music. Every single one of his compositions can be called up from the media stations. Get acquainted with Baroque musical instruments and their specific timbres in his museum.
The museum is open from Tuesday to Sunday from 10am – 6pm. Ticket is 8 euros per adult, children under 16 are free. It includes audio guide. It’s not permissible to take any photos inside.
6) ST. THOMAS CHURCH or THOMASKIRCHE: Opposite of Bach Museum is St. Thomas Church in St. Thomas Square. From 1723 until his death in 1750, Johann Sebastian Bach was the highest ranking musician in Leipzig as Director and cantor at St. Thomas. As part of his official duties, Bach was responsible for the musical education of the boys at St. Thomas School and for the music in services at the two main churches – St. Thomas and St. Nicholas – as well as the New Church (later called St. Matthew) and St. Peter’s Church. He used to perform here every other Sunday with his choir and orchestra. With his second wife, Bach lived in the old St. Thomas School on the churchyard and went to this church for confession and to receive Holy Communion. A life-size statue of Bach in front of the church stands to commemorate his time in this church.
St. Thomas is a simple church but highlight of it is that it houses the tomb of Bach. His remains are buried under a bronze epitaph near the altar. On 28th July 1750, Bach dies in Leipzig. He was originally buried in the hospital cemetery of St. John’s Church. In 1949 the mortal remains of Johann Sebastian Bach were transferred to this church from the ruins of the St. John’s Church which was destroyed during WWII. In 1950 Bach’s grave was erected in the chancel to commemorate the 200th anniversary of the death of St. Thomas’ greatest choirmaster. When we went there a group of musicians were practicing some music composed by Bach for a concert that night.
The interior of St. Thomas Church as it existed in Bach’s times has been removed almost entirely. Currently, the church has a splendid cross ribbed vaulted ceiling. The organ here is known as Bach Organ and has an impressive acoustics. One of the windows on the southern side of Gothic triple-nave basilica is called Bach Window. Built in 1895, it is a part of the five memorial windows of this church.
The church is located opposite to Bach Museum in St. Thomas Square and there is no fee to enter the church. Buying tickets ahead of time is recommended if you are interested in any of the concerts that the church holds every now and then.
DRESDEN, GERMANY: Situated by River Elbe, Dresden became a city in early 12th century. It has been the capital of German federal state of Saxony for many centuries. Therefore, this is the home to many Saxon kings and princes. They furnished the city with rich culture and artistic splendor over their reigns. Bombing during WWII destroyed the entire city center and ruined its original look. It was later reconstructed and restored to its former glory including some of the important buildings and churches. But you can still some black and burnt buildings in the old town…some evidences of what a war can do.
I loved Dresden. It didn’t, for some reason, look like another German city. Whenever I think of Dresden, its old town with astonishing old architectures come to my mind. Another of my favorite was walking by the river…even in cold winter, summer will surely be more beautiful here.
TIME of TRAVEL: Dresden was our fifth stop during the winter road trip we took in Christmas of 2013. Before coming to Dresden we made few stops at Fussen in Germany, Innsbruck and Salzburg in Austria, and then to Prague in Czech Republic. Germany can get really cold and windy in December but we handled it very well. The weather was unexpectedly not that freezing or snowy. It was below zero at night but during day it was very nice.
Last time we were in Dresden was in April of 2009. It was a short visit only for an hour when we were coming back from Prague. My husband stayed in the car with our daughter and I just took the camera and walked to Dresden Zwinger to take some pictures.
OUR HOTEL: We stayed in Holiday Inn Express in Dresden, less than 15 minutes of walk from the city center or old town. The hotel had free breakfast and Wi-Fi. The location was good too in a sense that it was only few steps away from a shopping street.
EATING and SHOPPING: We had our first dinner at a sushi place right in front of our hotel. Next lunch was at Restaurant Zur Frauenkirche in old town near Frauenkirche. They had plenty of different options of soup, salad, and yummy pastries.
I won’t say old town of Dresden is a paradise for shopping. It had souvenir stores here and there. No clothing or accessories stores came to my attention, may be they are on other sides where we didn’t go.
PLACES WE’VE VISITED: Most of the touristic spots of Dresden are in its old town or alstadt. We covered it on food but horse-carriage is also available. It’s pretty compact and organized. We had only a day to explore this town and these are what we did in Dresden:
1) FRAUENKIRCHE: Located in Neumarkt of old town, Frauenkirche is the most famous landmark of Dresden. The church is very beautiful inside as well as outside. Interior of this church is relatively modern and not a typical looking one. A statue of King Augustus II and another statue of St. Martin Luther stand at two sides of this church. Frauenkirche was completely destroyed during WWII and was later reconstructed in 2005. It’s free to enter and visitors can climb its tower for a great view.
2) SCHLOSSPLATZ – FURSTENZUG and HOFKIRCHE: This is probably one of the best places to enjoy River Elbe. There is a pedestrian bridge or terrace where we went to get a fantastic view of the river and its banks. This is a nice place to take a stroll and enjoy city’s old architecture. Also, if you love taking photos at night, this is a perfect place for that too. You can see shadows of buildings and their lights on the river, looks stunning.
Furstenzug or “Procession of Princes” on Augustusstrasse in Schlossplatz is a famous mural from 1870s. This large mural depicts processions of the rulers of Saxony on their horses in parade uniforms from 1127 – 1904. The original painting from late 19th century was replaced with some 23,000 ceramic tiles in early 1900. With a length of 335 ft., this is considered world’s biggest porcelain art-work.
Hofkirche or Dresden Cathedral in Schlossplatz is located by River Elbe in the old town. This is a big cathedral with all white interior, a grand organ, and nice altar. Its exterior is intriguingly beautiful with many statues of saints on the walls and roofs.
3) NEUSTADTER MARKT and GOLDENER REITER: After spending some in Schlossplatz we crossed the big bridge, called Augustus Bridge, and entered new part of the town. There are few things to see here, like Japanese Palace and some museums. We only went to the big square on the other side of the bridge after crossing an intersection. There is a golden statue of King Friedrich Augustus II in Neustadt, known as Goldener Reiter.
4) ELBE RIVER BANKS: We enjoyed view of the banks of Elbe while crossing King Augustus Bridge that connects old town with the new town. This long stretch of meadow by River Elbe is a very beautiful place to sit around or picnic goers in summer.
5) SEMPER OPERA: Semper Opera is definitely an eye-catching building in old town and is one of the most beautiful opera houses in the world. It was badly destroyed during WWII but was later rebuilt in 1985. It is located in Theaterplatz, opposite of Hofkirche. It can only be visited by guided tour, but unfortunately the tour was not available during our visit.
6) DRESDEN ZWINGER: This is the main attraction of Dresden. It’s a big garden surrounded by old Baroque palace buildings on all sides. These palaces were never completed. Dresden Zwinger includes Semper Building, Glockenspiel Pavilion (Clock Tower), Crown Gate, Rampart Pavilion, Nymphs’ Bath, and Marble Hall. Three museums that tourists can visit in these buildings are – Math and Physics, Porcelain, and Art museum. This is a beautiful place to walk around. I remember from my 2009 visit here that all the gardens were looking fabulous with all the flowers and fountains. It was a bit dull in winter but you can still enjoy walking on the terrace or on the ground with many other tourists.
Dresden Zwinger is located right beside Semper Opera. There is no ticket to enter the courtyard or garden but the museums require tickets.
7) GRÜNES GEWÖLBE – MUSEUM of TREASURY ART: The Grunes Gewolbe is world renown as one of the richest treasure chambers in the world and definitely Europe’s most splendid treasure chamber museum. There are two permanent exhibitions in the Residenzschloss. Historic Grunes Gewolbe – Baroque Treasure Chamber is on the first floor of Residenzschloss. And the one we visited was Neues Grunes Gewolbe.
Museum of Treasury Art includes three sections: Turkish – Ottoman art from 5th century, Treasury – Historical Green Vault, and Armory.
Museum of Treasury Art, the Neues Grunes Gewolbe contains more than 1,000 priceless and exquisite antique objects. We were fascinated by every individual item and the infinite wealth of details on these extraordinary works of art like everyone else in that museum. It contains unique goldsmith’s artistic items made by court jeweler Dinglinger, an outstanding artist of Baroque jewelry work. You can also find precious objects made of amber, mother of pearl, and ivory gemstone vessels and elegant bronze statuettes. Exclusive royal jewelries, wall-hangings/tapestries, portraits, and parade textiles are also here. These are from personal collection of King August the Strong, mostly dating from 1697 to 1719.
Two of the most dazzling and remarkable work of art here are: 1) “Dresden Green Diamond” – the most valuable diamond of the entire jewel treasure in the Green Vault and is the biggest green diamond in the world. This is an exceptionally precious 41 carats green diamond with tiny cherry stone carved with gold and silver. No one knows how it came to Dresden from India many years ago. 2) The “Royal Court” at Delhi (India) on the occasion of the Grand Mogul Aurangzeb by Johann Melchior Dinglinger from 1701. This is a detail ornamental depiction of “The Throne of the Grand Mogul Aurangzeb”.
In the Turkish exhibition, you can see August the Great’s huge Turkish collection, armory, and antiques. Armory section also has a gorgeous collection and depictions of arms, swords, battle-uniforms, amours, weapons, and shields.
Museum is located in old town and is open every from 10 – 6 except Tuesdays. It was 10 euros per adult to visit Neues Grunes Gewolbe (Historic Grunes Gewolbe is separate). We weren’t allowed to take any pictures inside.
PRAGUE, CZECH REPUBLIC: Praha or Prague is a picturesque European city situated by River Vltava. Founded in 9th century, historically, this was once the capital of the Bohemian region. Now it’s the capital and the largest city of Czech Republic. Prague is such a beautiful city that it would be unfair to try to describe it with words or portray thru photos. This is one of my favorite cities in the world where I can come back at any given every opportunity.
River Vltava and its bridges are what you probably seen in lots of pictures from Prague. It is indeed something to admire. The city can offer some stunning views from many points like Charles Bridge, Prague Castle, and many of its towers. Prague is regarded as one of Europe’s most charming cities and is one of the most popular destinations in Eastern Europe. Its old town was listed as UNESCO World Heritage site in 1992.
(Please excuse my old photos from 2009 with the big yellow dates on them.)
TIME of TRAVEL: I have mentioned in my last few posts that we took a road trip during Christmas of 2013. My uncle-in-law from Chicago was here with us during this trip. After visiting Fussen in Germany and Innsbruck and Salzburg in Austria we arrived in Prague the day after Christmas. Eastern Europe can be below freezing in December but it was actually not that bad during day. Temperature was definitely low at night but it didn’t stop anyone from having good time in Prague.
Last time we were in Prague was during Easter holidays of 2009. We took a two weeks tour around Europe when we were still living in Portland, Oregon. Easter is very colorful here. It doesn’t matter when you make a trip to Prague, it is always swamped with tourists and thriving with busy lives.
OUR HOTEL: This time we stayed in an apartment-style place, Hotel Julis, in Wenceslas Square. Parking can be a problem (the garage is 5 minutes of walk) but the best part is you are right in the middle of a busy square. Christmas lighting was fantastic as well as the markets on the pedestrian zone. It took us only 5 minutes to reach the main square from here and maybe another few minutes to reach Charles Bridge. There were many shops and souvenir stores just outside our hotel. It was a spacious room with a small kitchen in one side. Breakfast and free Wi-Fi were included in the price too.
Last time we were here in 2009 we also stayed very close to the old town. It was Hotel Unitas. It had breakfast and parking spaces for customers. If I can remember correctly, the hotel was only 5 minutes’ walk from the metro station.
EATING and SHOPPING: Our first dinner in Prague was on the other side of Charles Bridge in Lesser Town. The name was “U Tri Zvonku” meaning “The Three Bells”. The food was fantastic, but the cool part of it was that there were small notes and writings on all the walls of this restaurant. Customers can write anything on its wall if they can find an empty spot. We also asked for some markers and our daughters wrote their messages on the walls too. Second night, we ate at “Taverna Toscana” near Astronomical Clock in the old town…good Italian food and nice people. Afterwards, we tried a traditional Czech pastry-like snack, called Trdelnik from the Christmas market. It’s a rolled pastry roasted on fiery coals.
Last time in 2009 we had dinner in old town square at the corner of Astronomical clock. And I remember clear they had some awesome dishes, especially the dipping sauce they served with the warm breads…still can’t forget its taste.
There are too many things in Prague to buy as souvenirs or memorabilia. Traditionally, Bohemian glass or crystal are something very famous in this region. They are very exclusive and can be very expensive. Bohemian garnet is also very well-known in Prague. I saw many amber stores too. Also lots of stores carry wooden toys and marionette puppets depicting many celebrities and traditional characters from stories.
Streets of Old Town and Lesser Town are packed with tons of stores. Shops in Old Town square during Easter and Christmas are good places to buy souvenirs for reasonable prices. Try to avoid buying things from the main old streets; you can find same items with much cheaper price in smaller alleys. We bought a print of sketch from Charles Bridge for 60 euros and a Bohemian glass vase with glass flowers from Wenceslas Square. In 2009, we bought a hand-crafted Bohemian crystal egg from Lesser Town for 20 euros, I think.
PLACES WE’VE VISITED: First time we were here in 2009, we stayed in Prague for 3 days but this time we were there for a day and half. There are countless things to do in Prague which can keep any visitor busy for weeks. It is a big city after all and has something for every taste. Enjoy classic shows in theaters, be amazed by really old churches or synagogues, enjoy the view of whole city from different towers – like TV Tower or Petrin Tower, appreciate old and new architecture of Prague (especially check out the Jewish quarter for that), get lost in small alleys of old town, or if nothing just take a stroll on Charles Bridge and enjoy its bustling scenes.
1) OLD TOWN and ASTRONOMICAL CLOCK: This is the main square and one of the liveliest places of Prague. The Christmas lighting and markets were fabulous here and the Christmas tree was one of the tallest and gorgeous I’ve seen so far. It includes several historic buildings, monuments, and churches. It’s a perfect place for drinks or a meal.
Last time when we were here during Easter, the place had many stores at that time too. We took a horse ride around the old town from here. St. Nicholas Church is a Baroque church from 18th century in the northern side of the square. We never went inside the church but it’s beautiful. Goltz-Kinsky Palace (now National Gallery) from 18th century is the most remarkable building in old town. Church of Our Lady before Tyn is a dominating feature of this square. This 14th century Gothic church was the main place to worship in old town during that time. Currently, I am not sure if visitors are allowed to go in but it looks gorgeous at night when its two towers with 4 spires are lit up. The southern side of the square has a series of some photogenic Renaissance and Baroque façade buildings covered with murals from couple centuries ago. And finally, a huge memorial to a religious reformer, Jan Hus, stands in the middle of this square.
At one side of the square is Prague’s old town hall with a big old astronomical clock on it. It’s a 14th century Gothic building. There is a little show at very hour when the clock rings…something worth seeing. Tourists are allowed to go inside and to its tower for a little fee.
2) CHARLES BRIDGE (KARLUV MOST): This is my most favorite bridge in Europe and one of the must-sees of Prague. It connects Old Town with Lesser Town. It can be very crowded and touristy at any time of the year (particularly in summer days) but this pedestrian bridge over River Vltava offers absolutely stunning view of the river, other bridges, Prague Castle, and overall a nice view of a lovely town by River Vltava. This 12th century bridge has two impressive towers and I think, tourists can go on top on one of them. Thirty, mostly Baroque style, statues of various saints richly adorn the two sides of Charles Bridge (15 on each side). These sculptures are not the original ones (original statues were destroyed in floods and in other events) and you will see many people touching them for good luck. Take a stroll on this bridge both during day and at night to experience different looks of it.
Charles Bridge is more than just a bridge, it is the symbol of Prague. The bridge is beautiful day or night. We crossed it once at night and then the next day to go to Prague Castle. By the way, this is a nice place to buy paintings or sketches done by local artists. You can also find some other local souvenirs on this bridge.
3) PRAGUE CASTLE: According to the Guinness Book of Records, Prague Castle is the biggest ancient castle in the world dating back to 9th century. You can find virtually every architectural style of the last millennium in this castle buildings. This is the place where Kings of Bohemia, Holy Roman Emperors and presidents of Czechoslovakia and the Czech Republic have had their offices. The Czech Crown Jewels are also kept here. Austro-Hungarian Empress Maria Theresa gave the castle its present architectural form. Ferdinand I (V) was the last crowned King of Bohemia and his coronation in 1836 was the last important event at Prague Castle before the creation of independent Czechoslovakia in 1918.
You can get one of the best views of the city from Castle Hill. Bridges, steeples and domes of many churches, red roofs of nearby neighborhood, and everything in the far distance look fantastic from here.
“The Gate of The Giants” is what the main entrance to the castle is called. Two royal guards stand there continuously. Make sure to be near the entrance to catch change of guards. It takes place every hour but if I think, at noon the event is longer and nicer. We saw it in 2009 but not this time.You can find several exhibitions, like art, history, toy museum, galleries, and few temporary or permanent exhibitions once you are inside the castle. Other than that the castle has several palaces, defense towers, and gardens. Most of the castle area is open to tourists. There are few big courtyards within the castle complex.
As soon as we passed the first courtyard, we saw St. Vitus Cathedral. This Gothic cathedral is one of the most prominent architecture in the whole city. This is also the biggest and the most important church in Czech Republic. This grand edifice is stunning outside and very ornate inside. The pair of its old and tall steeples can be seen from far away. Although we didn’t go, anyone can visit its bell tower for a unique view of the city.
Then we stopped at Old Royal Palace. It may not be that impressive from outside but the palace houses some old portraits, large halls, few old furniture, a throne room, and replica of orb, crown, and scepter.
A red building beside Royal Palace is the Basilica of St. George. This Romanesque basilica was founded at the beginning of 10th century. It’s very simple and small. There was a small exhibition on church’s history here, maybe something worth visiting.
From there we grabbed some sandwiches before walking towards the Golden Lane. This is something we didn’t explore in 2009. This is a small cobbled-stone alley with some exquisite shops. The main attraction of this lane is that there are some displays of Renaissance age’s professions and how those professionals lived during that time. You can see goldsmith’s workshop, an old tavern, a psychic’s house, and etc.
Finally, we visited the prison room in the castle. It was a tiny underground cell from the medieval time. We get to see some old torture instruments and a big well where serious criminals were kept.
The castle is located on the Castle Hill near Lesser Town. You can either walk up the ramp or take lots and lots of stairs to go up to Prague Castle. There are few packages to explore the castle. We took the “Short Visit” which was 250 CZK and it included St. Vitus Cathedral, Royal Palace, St. George’s Basilica, and Golden Lane. Kids under 6 enter free.
4) LESSER TOWN: The neighborhood on the other side of Charles Bridge near Prague Castle is known as Lesser Town. This is also an old part of Prague. This historic quarter has some beautiful cobbled streets, churches, and local shops.
5) MARRIONETTE OPERA: Something new we did this time in Prague was that we watched a marionette opera show in old town of Prague. This side of Europe (including Austria) is very famous for their marionettes. The one we saw was called “Don Giovanni”. This was a gift from the famous composer Mozart to the city of Prague in 18th century. It’s a classic story with fantastic music and wonderful puppets. We went there mainly for the kids but I even loved it so much (although we couldn’t understand story) that I had to come back to hotel and read the story of Don Giovanni…should have done it before going to the performance.
The theater is very close to Charles Bridge, can’t really remember the name. They have marionette shows like this every day at 5pm and 8pm and the show lasts for about 1 hour and 15 minutes.
6) DANCING HOUSE: Also known as “Fred and Ginger”, this is one of the unusual buildings in Prague which was built in 1996. It was named after two dancers, Fred and Ginger. This is Canadian-American architect Frank Gehry’s one of the finest piece of works. You may have to walk a bit away from the old town but it is within walking distance and something worth the visit.
7) WENCESLAS SQUARE: Although this is the biggest square in Prague, it is more than just a typical square. Originally it was a horse market in the Middle age. Now, Wenceslas Square is more like a modern avenue lined up with many shops and souvenir stores…a fantastic place for shopping. The place comes alive especially after dark. We found a big Christmas market here too. A statue of St. Wenceslas was placed here in the 19th century. This is a historic place of the Czech people, this is where they came together to demonstrate against the communist government. At one end is the Czech National Museum.